A wonderful weekend in windy Wellington
A semi-spontaneous trip to New Zealand? Don’t mind if we do.
From our home port of Australia, getting to New Zealand is almost like travelling interstate. Just don’t make the mistake of actually calling it that.
Here’s some stuff we did in just over 48 hours.
Max Patté’s Solace in the Wind was originally a temporary installation.
Getting there
A quick trip from Sydney is a breeze, with multiple airlines taking around three hours to get there from the east coast of Australia. We flew out Friday evening and due to the time difference, arrived in downtown Welly around 1am. Yet that gave us all of Saturday and Sunday to explore the city and its surroundings.
The Wellington Cable Car puts the fun in funicular.
Can’t spell funicular without fun
A walk along the Wellington Waterfront earned us some free strawberries from a vendor as we eavesdropped on a tour group. Here the unmistakable icon of the Solace in the Wind statue (aka the Naked Man) juts out over the harbour front.
Just around the corner is the Wellington Cable Car. The funicular railway runs between the Lambton Quay shops and Kelburn, a hill over the city with spectacular views. If Amy hasn’t mentioned it before, she’s mad about funiculars. If there’s a city with a funicular, we’re planning on going there.
At the top of the hill, you’re greeted by two mannequins from Lord of the Rings, a franchise now baked into the DNA of NZ. You’ll also find beautiful botanic gardens, with more views of the city and waterfront. The Space Place observatory allowed us a view of the sun through a special lens which was an unexpected treat.
The main attraction is the Cable Car Museum, not just for the history of the transport but it’s a snapshot of an evolving city too.
The boat ride through Zealandia is the best way to see one of the world’s only urban nature reserves.
Zealandia: nature in the city
Just six minutes drive out of the city is Zealandia. A wildlife ecosanctuary devoid of predators, you’ll find lush rolling wilderness, a riverboat tour and all manner of native birds and creatures.
We spotted kea, kaka, a very hidden tuatara (or three), and got dive bombed by a tūi. We also saw New Zealand’s smallest and rarest ducks (not the same bird). We were told there was a kiwi spotted in the morning, a once rare sight now slowly returning to Wellington. You can usually spot a takahaē, but they were shy during our visit.
From the previously mentioned Cable Car Museum, there’s a shuttle that runs regularly between Zealandia and the city central. Zealandia is a great way to get out of town and see nature without having to go too ‘off road’ in the process.
Beer paradise
Back in the city, we stopped in at Fortune Favours for a few cheeky pints before heading over to Aro Street and Garage Project’s 91 Aro taproom. A great space, good food, even better beer – and a very cool hangout to boot. (Across the road is Garage’s cellar door in an old service station). Finished the night with the lovely folks at Heyday Brewery, before discovering that supermarkets sell craft beer and Belgian imports for under $7.
On our second day, we had a private tour of Garage Project’s Wild Workshop, their spontaneous fermentation/experimental space. Our host was a font of stories and tasting notes. Check them out, and definitely try Chance, Luck and Magic.
Our last drinks were at the very different Panhead Brewery, more of a biker by way of Rolling Stone vibe.
Te Papa Museum
Clocks and museums
Te Papa, the museum of New Zealand, is a must-visit. The huge space examines Māori, colonial and international perspectives on NZ. One of the friendly staff used the wonderful improv-inspired phrase ‘Yes, and?’ in reference to exploring their collection.
We wandered through the nearby Bush City, a kind of all-ages urban jungle playground, before landing on Sweet Release vegan cafe for lunch. We picked up a souvenir for next year from the Christmas Wonderland Store. The nearby Old Bank Arcade is a traditional shopping arcade with a surprisingly colonial animated clock.
Getting back
We did, however, choose to fly out at 6am Monday (4am Sydney time) and go straight back to work. Great idea in theory, but that time difference meant we’d been up for seven hours by the time we punched on. Oops.
Pro-tip: if you want to get a cab in town, make sure you download the app before you travel.