Strolling through Copenhagen’s Tivoli: walking in Walt’s footsteps
Smack bang in the heart of the city, Tivoli Gardens is as much a part of Copenhagen’s history as it is an escape from the everyday hustle.
When we last visited the historic amusement park on a surprisingly chilly spring day, we knew it by reputation—over 180 years of it—and its connection to Disneyland. Walt Disney not only took inspiration from Tivoli for his first theme park in Anaheim but also visited it himself, drawn to its enchanting atmosphere.
So, despite battling a cold and the frosty Danish weather, retracing Walt’s footsteps made the origins of Disneyland feel just that little bit closer to home.
Founded: 1843
Highlights: beautiful gardens and landscaping, one of the oldest wooden roller coasters in the world, inspirations for Disneyland
Cost: 188 DKK – 429 DKK (Children start from 90 DKK)
Tickets and info: Tivolk.dk
Walking in Walt’s footsteps
Founded in 1843, Tivoli Gardens is one of the world’s oldest amusement parks and a beloved landmark in the heart of Copenhagen. It truly feels like a fairy tale come to life, with its elegant gardens, live entertainment, and classic rides. One such ride, the Rutschebanen rollercoaster, has been thrilling visitors since 1914. Not only was it there when Walt Disney visited in 1951, but it remains one of the world’s oldest operating wooden rollercoasters.
Travelling with his wife Lillian and TV personality Art Linkletter—who would go on to emcee Disneyland’s opening day broadcast—Walt reportedly took copious notes during his visit. He was particularly struck by how Tivoli was “spotless, brightly coloured, and priced within the reach of everyone.” Sound familiar?
I was acutely aware of this history when we visited the park, and I got a little chill down my spine—though that might have been the weather. Entering Tivoli’s main gates doesn’t quite have the same feeling as stepping under the Main Street Station into Disneyland. With its flower beds and lantern-lined pathways, it’s more like wandering through a beautifully manicured city park. Yet I couldn’t help but be reminded of Disneyland’s Partners statue when I saw the figure of Georg Carstensen, Tivoli’s founder, standing near the entrance with a garland of flowers around his neck.
A cold day in a warm place
On the day we visited Tivoli, I was at the height of a serious cold. It was week two of a five-week trip around Europe, and our single-serve train neighbour on a day trip to Malmö had left me with a parting gift that would linger all the way to Hamburg. There was nothing for it: I gave my beanie a tug, bought a new pair of gloves, and headed straight for The Mine dark ride.
Still, it’s hard not to enjoy the crisp spring air when Denmark’s flowers are in full bloom. Tivoli isn’t just a collection of carnival rides—it’s an experience, blending gardens, performances, and ornate decoration. The Chinese-inspired pantomime theatre and the Moorish Palace—home to the on-site Hotel Nimb—sit comfortably beside giant swings, a World War II-era ferris wheel, and Dæmonen, the looming custom coaster that dominates the skyline.
This mix of influences and themes feels familiar to Disney parks, though here it unfolds in a looser, more carefree way. Take The Flying Suitcase (Den Flyvende Kuffert), a Disney-style dark ride that opened in 1993, which whisks visitors through a series of Hans Christian Andersen stories in the titular luggage. It’s reminiscent of Peter Pan’s Flight, playing out in both English and Danish. We couldn’t resist riding it twice—plus, it kept us out of the cold for seven precious minutes.
Tivoli: the beating heart of Copenhagen
Unlike a Disney theme park, which goes out of its way to cut guests off from urban life, Tivoli is embedded in the city. Its spires and tall rides are visible from all around the city centre, a constant presence in Copenhagen’s skyline.
Like Luna Park in Sydney, there’s something unique about stepping straight from busy streets into the park. It’s not just in the city—it’s an organic part of it. Many of the surrounding shops and restaurants have entrances both inside and outside the park, seamlessly blending Tivoli with Copenhagen’s daily life.
Tivoli is both an inspiration and its own distinct experience. Walt’s creation may have eclipsed Tivoli in terms of global reach, but it hasn’t yet lasted half as long as this Danish icon. In fact, Disney never really stopped drawing from Tivoli. He once said, “Disneyland will never be completed. It will continue to grow as long as there is imagination left in the world.” It echoes Carstensen’s words from over a hundred years earlier: “Tivoli will never, so to speak, be finished.”
